Clothing Moth Facts

Reprinted from the Flowerdepotstore.com

• The favorite fabric of the Clothing moth is wool but it has also been known to feed on many types of fabric including Silk, Cashmere, and even Fur. So be sure to protect your woven fabrics, sweaters, socks, gloves, linings of boots, fabric pieces, drapes, curtains and throws.
• Remove any stains from garments as soon as possible. Stains attract moths. Avoid spray perfume or cologne on your wool garments and knits. Perfume and cologne are best when applied directly to skin or cotton garments.
• Vacuum your home and closets regularly and remove the contents of the bag. Vacuuming is one of the best ways to rid your home of all types of pests including moths, but the debris in the bag may contain Moth eggs and larvae, so be sure to remove it form your home after cleaning.
• Dry clean your clothing regularly to kill any new egg deposits. Wool garments and accessories are best stored in airtight drawers or containers that include moth protection of some type, such as; Lavender, Cedar, Herbal Sachets or Prozap Strips ion closets.
• Hanging Herbal Moth Sachets from hangers that have your Moth-Favorite garments, or store in cedar lined closets and chests. 

Moth News Update

Reprinted from The Flower Depot

What Are Moths?

At The Depot, we receive dozens of calls each month from individuals searching for information on how to get rid of flying insects, most notably flying moths, in their homes and businesses. The moths are seen in and around their pantries, wild bird food, pet food and clothes closets. Many report seeing moths around dried flower arrangements and in dried flowers in storage.

The moths the callers are describing are almost always Indian Meal Moths. But the moths they see are only the tip of the iceberg. It's the larvae (worms) of these moths that are responsible for the destruction of everything they infest. Damage is caused by the larvae spinning silken threads as they feed and craw, webbing food particles together. Besides infesting all cereal food products and whole grains, larvae also feed on a wide variety of foods such as dried fruits, powdered milk, cornmeal, flour, raisins, prunes, nuts, chocolate, candies, health food and seeds, birdseed, dog and cat food, fish food, and pasta. In addition, dried flowers used in wreaths and arrangements are a source of food the larvae find attractive.

Sometimes mistaken as clothes moths, homeowners first notice small moths flying in a zigzag pattern around kitchens, pantries and other rooms in the home. Occasionally, the larvae or "white worms with black heads" crawl up walls and suspend from the cling attached to a single silken thread. Other times, larvae are found in a food package along with unsightly webbing. It is repulsive to the homeowner and costly to the manufacturer. Packages of whole wheat, flour, and corn meal are often infested. Some moths do fly into buildings during summer months through open doors or windows, but most "hitchhike" inside packaged goods and groceries. Not only homes, but restaurants, grocery stores, warehouses, pet stores and stores that sell wild bird feed or dried flowers can become infested.

How to Avoid Moths

To be certain, you want to avoid having a moth infestation. Avoiding this problem is easy, inexpensive and effective, and boils down to one word: PREVENTION. That's right, taking steps now to prevent a problem in the first place will save you a lot of time, money and grief. It is MUCH more difficult to get rid of an infestation than preventing one in the first place. Prevention starts with education, and anticipation that a future problem could occur. By taking a few simple preventive measures, you are unlikely to experience an infestation of moths.

Kitchens and pantries: Keep stores foods such as cereal, grains, nuts, cornmeal and pasta in sealed containers. Even in sealed containers these products can become infested because Indian Meal Moth eggs may have been present in the product at the time it was purchased. Containers and packages of stored food should be inspected periodically, at least every month or so. Any food that appears to have signs of webbing should be discarded immediately. Purchase foods that are seldom used in small quantities to prevent long storage periods of a month or more. Susceptible material stored for six months or more, especially during hot summer months, has the possibility of developing into serious infestations. Highly susceptible foods, such as spices, can be kept in the refrigerator, and other foods in the freezer. Always use older packages first, and inspect frequently to avoid any spillage, which might attract insects.

Pet food and birdseed should also be stored in airtight containers and regularly inspected for signs of moth infestation. Discard any product that shows signs of infestation.

Moth Detective

Thoroughly inspect wild bird feed and pet food at the time of purchase. Some food becomes matted with silken webbing. The larval stage is the feeding or "pest stage." In stored grains, feeding is done at the surface. In bulky materials, stored in boxes, feeding may be done from the bottom of the box. When ready to pupate, mature larvae leave their spun, tunnel-like case of frass and silk, then spin a silken cocoon. You should also be looking for fecal matter, which may appear to be gritty particles of dust that is often the same color as the infested product. To inspect bulky materials such as dried flowers, gently life the flowers out of the storage or shipping box and carefully inspect the debris in the bottom of the box. Under the bright light, it is helpful to use a small magnifying glass to do a thorough inspection; you should also be looking for live adult moths and their larvae.

Pheromone Traps

Another very important preventive measure is the use of pheromone traps. Pheromone traps are used for inspection, monitoring, and pinpointing infestations of adult Indian Meal moths. Insects use pheromones to communicate with each other, and are natural compounds created in the insect body. Many have been isolated in the laboratory and are now used to lure insects into sticky traps. Adult moths live only five to seven days with their major function to reproduce. Male moths are attracted to a pheromone scent (sex-attractant). Traps can be located indoors next to the ceiling, behind shelves, etc. to capture moths on a sticky surface.

Clothing Moths

Non-toxic, odorless trap that attracts and captures Clothing Moths. Traps use a special Clothing Moth Pheromone that will draw male moths into the sticky inner trapping surface. Each package contains two Clothing Moth traps and lasts for two months.

Foggers

Foggers automatically "release' all of their contents at once, creating a dense fog of insecticide that fills the air and settles on virtually everything that is exposed to. They are best used for instant knock down of moths as well as cockroaches, fleas and many other insects. A complete selection of foggers are available to provide instant knock-down of moths. Foggers are effective for many situations.

How to Identify Moths

The Indian Meal moths have four life stages: egg, larva, pupae and adult. Eggs are ovoid, .5 millimeters in diameter and whitish, or yellowish-white. Pupae are contained within silken cocoons. Newly formed pupae are yellowish-brown. Moths are 5 to 10 millimeters in length with a wingspread of 16 millimeters. Upon emergence, moths are very colorful (head and thorax are reddish-brown; abdomen grayish-brown; front one-third of fore wings is silvery-white or gray).

Life Cycle

Indian Meal moths are sexually mature and capable of mating immediately after they emerge from pupae. Female moths live up to 2 weeks and are capable of depositing up to 400 eggs each. Eggs are deposited singly or in clumps on or near potential food sources. Newly emerged larvae begin feeding immediately. There are 5 to 7 larval stages. Mature larvae either pupate where they are feeding or wander about before selecting a hidden or protected site (crack or crevice) in which to prepare silken cocoons within which they pupate.

Under indoor conditions, where temperatures are "comfortable,” Indian Meal moths are capable of continual development. With ideal temperatures and relative humidity (86 degrees F and 60 percent, respectively), development from egg to adult requires 3 to 4 weeks. In indoor situations, 7 and 8 generations per year have been reported by various authors.

How to Get Rid of Moths

Be sure to read and follow all instructions on the label of all pesticides.

If you see moths flying around inside your home or business and you think you may have an infestation, you should take immediate steps to get rid of the moths. First, find the source of the problem. Locate the food source where moth larevae is presently feeding. In home kitchens and pantries, carefully examine all packaged food items mentioned earlier, both opened and unopened. Often unopened food contains moth eggs at the time of purchase. Inspect all cracks and crevices in pantry cabinets and shelves, including the shelf bracket holes drilled inside of wood cabinets. Often the larvae will seek out those kinds of places to pupate.

Discard any and all foods where signs of moths or larvae are present. Remove all items from the cabinet or pantry. Vacuum the surfaces of shelves, walls and floors. Pay special attention to cracks and crevices, no matter how large or small. Thoroughly wash all containers that will be reused. Place pheromone traps in pantry, and throughout house. The traps will help you locate additional infestations. The same steps should be used for areas where pet food or wild birdseeds are stored.

Place "Insect Guard" pest strips where appropriate. Pest strips emit a vapor that will kill adult moths and their larvae.

What is a Pest Strip?

An Insect Guard pest strip is an insecticide impregnated plastic strip, housed in a white plastic cage. It is not a sticky type trap. An Insect Guard pest strip is an insecticide.

Do Pest Strips Have a Strong Odor?

There is no strong chemical odor associated with pest strips. They do have a slight sweet smell if you are very close to them.

Are Pest Strips Messy or Hard to Use?

Insect Guard strips are not messy and they are very easy to use. Just remove the strip from its foil wrapping and hang the strip where you want to kill and eliminate moths, flies, mosquitoes, cockroaches or silverfish.

Do Pest Strips Really Work?

Yes. Insect Guard pest strips kill adult moths and their larvae.

Where Can Insect Guard Strips be Used?

Closets, wardrobes, and storage spaces. Insect Guard pest strips also protect clothes from moths and leave no smell. Garbage cans and dumpsters to control flies. Animal buildings--controls flies, mosquitoes, and gnats in horse barns and dog kennels.

How Long Do Pest Strips Last?

Once an Insect Guard strip is removed from its foil wrapping it will continue to be effec-tive for at least 4 months, and if unopened, will retain effectiveness for several years.

Pest Problems and Fiber Storage

An excerpt from “The  Spinner's Companion" by Bobbie Irwin

Mildew

• Warmth and humidity promote mildew (fungus)
• Mildew primarily affects cellulose fibers, especially cotton; some fibers are only susceptible when damp.
• Mildew is rarely a problem with protein fibers unless they are stored damp.

Bacteria

• Bacteria primarily affect cotton and can affect fiber subjected to prolonged dampness.
• Silk is relatively bacteria resistant, but can rot if subjected to prolonged dampness.

Insects - Incidental Damage

• Clothes moth larvae will eat through cellulose and synthetic fibers to get to the protein fiber they want to consume.
• Insects may feed on the finishes of some fabrics or yarn, especially sizing (starch).

Insects - Direct Damage

• Crickets, silverfish, roaches, and termites may chew fabrics or fibers, but not as a primary food source; some are attracted to starch.
• Silverfish and firebrats look similar, but firebrats are speckled and have longer appendages. Both prefer dark places. Silverfish prefer warmth and dampness, and firebrats seek heat. Immature silverfish and firebrats resemble the adults, only smaller.
• Clothes moths (family Tineidae) are small (1/2 inch) and tan. Adult moths do not eat fiber; only larvae eat fiber. Females are relatively sedentary; most of the moths you see flying around are males. Cloth moths are not attracted to light.
• A female moth lays 100-200 eggs at a time; eggs laid directly on fiber, yarn or fabric are tiny, pearly ovals that hatch within one to three weeks.
• Clothes moth larvae seek the protein keratin found in animal fibers (wool, hair) as well as leather, skin, horn and feathers. They may stay in the larvae state for six weeks to almost three years (warm, humid weather promotes their development).
• The larvae are very small, off-white naked caterpillars with dark heads that eat holes in animal fibers, yarn, and fabric. They will eat the protein fiber in a blend.
• Carpet beetles (genus Anthbrenus and others) are small (less than 1/2 inch), hard-shelled beetles, mottled or black. Females lay eggs in dark, dusty places, including carpets and crevices of upholstered furniture. Adults do not normally damage fiber or fabric.
• Carpet beetle larvae are broad, small (1/4 inch) bristly, and stay in the larval state up to several years. They eat protein fiber, including silk.
• Moths and carpet beetles prefer darkness, dirt, and cramped conditions.

Detecting Insect Infestations

• Even if insects are not present, you can tell if they've been in your fiber or yarn.
• If you see adult insects, inspect your fiber/yarn/fabric for damage.
• Insects chew holes in fabric and cut through yarn or fiber.
• Small, scattered holes are typical of moth damage.
• Carpet beetles leave large holes.
• Cloths moths leave behind a mass of cobweb-like threads or silky tubes, mixed with fecal debris. Carpet beetles do not leave debris.
• Be alert for egg clusters.
• Inspect fiber, yarn, and fabric frequently. Untwist yarns skeins periodically.
• If you find damaged fiber or active infestation, destroy all pests and eggs, and sort the rest of the fiber. Unaffected areas may still be used, but it's a good idea to freeze or wash the good fiber even if it has been washed before.

Remedies

Chemical Controls

• Mothballs and crystals containing paradichlorobenzene (PDB) or naphthalene evaporate to form fumes that kill larval and adult insects and may also repel them. They are effective only in closed areas where the vapors can't dissipate, and they are toxic to humans. PDB is probably carcinogenic.
• Chemicals such as Eulan*, Edolan*, and Mitin*, designed for industrial use, make fibers permanently unpalatable to insect larvae. They are not safe for home application.
• Dry cleaning solvents kill insects but are too toxic for home use.
• Most home and garden insecticides that kill insects are not recommended for use on fiber or fabric.
• Boric acid (2-4%) combined with imidazole (1%) provides moth protection that persists through dry cleaning but not washing. 

Natural Controls

Physical Methods

• Submersing fiber, yarn, or fabric completely under water for at least 12 hours will kill larvae and eggs.
• Freezing fiber, yarn, or fabric for several days at OF/ -17.7C kills larvae, eggs and adults.
• Heat above 106F/ 41C for four hours kills moth eggs, larvae, pupae, and adults. Excessive heat may damage fiber (e.g. prolonged exposure of fiber to sunlight while it's sealed in a plastic bag is not recommended.)
• Fiber-damaging insects dislike light and may leave the fiber source if exposed to strong sunlight and air for a few hours. Prolonged exposure to sunlight damages fiber.
• Flypaper and other sticky traps are effective. Soak cotton balls in fish oil and attach them to the flypaper to help attract insects.
• Layer fiber between sheets of printed newspaper or brown (Kraft) paper. Newspaper ink may have some repellent effect (although the new soy-based inks are said to be less effective), and brown paper is a physical barrier that the larvae won't eat. Acids from the paper will eventually damage fiber, however.

Biological Controls

• The bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis (BT) attacks moth larvae of all types and may be effective against clothes moths. 

Herbal Controls

Insecticides

• 'Natural' does not always mean `safe'- some plants and plant extracts, such as concentrated nicotine, kill insects, but are also very toxic to humans and are unsafe for home use.
• Effective herbal insecticides which are relatively safe include Rotenone and Pyrethrin.
• Insecticidal soaps are safe, but their effectiveness on clothes moth or beetle larvae have not been reported.

Repellents

• Some strong-smelling herbs may mask the sulfur scent that attracts moths and beetles to fiber food sources. Essential oils are highly concentrated and should be handled with care; many will kill insects as well as repel them. Soaps scented with herbs make effective sachets. Dried plant material from the following sources, alone or combined, may deter pests, especially in confined areas where the vapors are concentrated: Balsam Fir, Bay, Camphor Basil, Cedar, Cinnamon, Cloves, Geranium (scented), Lavender, Wormwood, Painted Daisy (Prethrum), Pennyroyal, Rosemary, Southernwood, Sweet Marjoram, Sweet Woodruff, Tansy, Tarragon.
• Raw plant material including wood (such as cedar) releases acids that can hasten the deterioration of fiber and fabric; avoid direct contact and prolonged exposure.
• Not all strong-smelling plants repel insects; clothes moths are attracted to some of them. The following are not considered effective: Allspice, Angelica Root, Black Pepper, Cayenne Pepper, Ginger, Hellebore, Horseradish, Eucalyptus, Red Cedar Leaves.
• Citronella and camphor are effective repellents derived from plant sources. Camphor is poisonous, but less so than chemical mothballs.

Prevention

• Carefully examine all new fiber for evidence of insect infestation; destroy affected fiber. Keds (sheep ticks) that are obviously dead will not harm your fiber, but since some ticks spread disease, don't handle them with your bare hands.
• Skirt fleeces well and discard dirty, matted areas that won't wash clean.
• Clean fleeces and textiles thoroughly before storing them.
• Spin fresh fiber whenever possible and avoid keeping fiber over long time periods.
• Avoid compressing fiber.
• Inspect fiber periodically and allow it to air in the sunshine.
• Vacuum crevices, carpets, and upholstery regularly.
• Check the underside of rugs and the back side of wall textiles.

Storage

• Clean fiber, yarn, and textiles thoroughly before storage.
• Fiber, yarn, and textiles must be completely dry before storage. Wool may feel dry even though it holds some moisture, so don't store it for several days after you wash it. In a humid climate it will absorb some moisture from the atmosphere, but that is probably safe.
• Ideal storage temperature is 65- 68F, relative humidity 45-50%.
• Avoid direct contact with unfinished wood.
• Place insect repellent in cloth bags, out of direct contact with fiber, yarn, or textiles.
• Avoid contact with polyvinyl chloride plastic (PVC), use inert plastics labeled acid-free or "archival". Safe containers include those made of polyethylene, polyester, and polypropylene.
• Paper or cardboard in long-term contact with fiber, yarn, or textiles must be acid free.
• Avoid compressing fiber; allow it to breath.
• Store protein fibers in indirect, low light to discourage insects.
• Store cellulose fibers in dark places to protect from sunlight.
• Use sealed bags and containers to create a barrier to insects and make repellents more effective. Plastic storage boxes are good, especially in regions with low humidity.
• Clean fiber, yarn, and textiles that are hung in airy, open spaces rarely attract insects.
• Air fiber, yarn, and fabrics and check for pests every few months.

This article is an excerpt from The Spinners Companion, by Bobbie Irwin, a quick reference guide designed for both beginners and experienced spinners. For more information on Bobbies work, you can contact her at irwin@rmi.net.

(Editor's note: I found this article in the Camelid Quarterly, September 2005)