Camelid Handling Tricks of the Trade, Or Don't Cut Off A Piece of Perfectly Good Ham!

By Marty McGee Bennett, Cool Camelids

You would think that human beings would just naturally do things the easy way. As it turns out, we don't. Instead we often do things the way we were shown how to do them the first time. This is not necessarily the easiest or best way. I am reminded of a story… A woman is getting ready for Easter dinner and is busy cutting off the ends of the ham before putting it in the huge roasting pan. Her daughter is watching and asks, "Why are you cutting off the ends? There isn't anything wrong with the ham you are cutting off." The woman says to her daughter, "You know, now that you are asking...I don't know why. This is the way Grandma showed me how to prepare the ham for roasting and I have always done it that way." They both decided to find out why when Grandma arrived that afternoon. When asked about the mystery technique, she said, "My roasting pan was never big enough to hold the ham."

In my experience, I see an awful lot of people using training and handling techniques that are just as nonsensical, and for the same reason. The person who sold them their first alpaca or llama did it that way--so they do too.

You need not begin reading this article at the beginning or keep reading until the end. You don't have to understand or agree with any particular training or handling philosophy. The following list is a compilation of tricks of the trade that will help you work magic with your animals immediately. Newcomers to the camelid business will want to laminate this article and put it in the barn. If you have been at the camelid game for a while, you may already have figured out some of this, but read carefully. You may find one or two nuggets of wisdom to add to your "toolbox."

Herding

• Using a special word, noise or whistle to call your animals into the barn at mealtime is a great way of getting them in the barn--but be aware of the dangers of creating a "calling" pattern. Periodically call the camelids in at two in the afternoon or ten at night and give them food when you do. You won't be faced with a group of cute, clever camelids looking at their watches and shaking their little heads when you holler the magic word at the wrong time of day.
• When threatened, an animal's first choice is to get away--the flight response. All mental circuits are focused on finding an escape route. Herding a group of animals is actually the same as creating an escape route for the animals that suits you. Camelids will instinctively orient themselves so that they have a forward escape route relative to any perceived threat. Before you begin herding, look at the process from this perspective and block all exits, except the one leading to the desired location.
• When moving animals into or through small spaces, and particularly when moving around frightened or shy animals, be aware that you are larger than you think. Remember… to a camelid, you are as big as the physical space that you occupy and your reach (reach=your body and the length of your arms). You will make major points with your animals, especially nervous ones, if you keep yourself at a safe distance as you work around them.
• When sorting animals, it is helpful to have two or more levels of confinement. Small catch pens that join a slightly larger area are much more useful than a single, tiny catch pen in the corner of a huge pasture. It will be much easier to herd the animals into the secondary container. There will always be those animals that sneak by when you are working them into the smaller catch pen; with an intermediate container you will not have to start over in the big field.
• If your pasture is too big to manage alone, you can build a temporary fence in the middle of the pasture to create an area you can work with. Fiberglass fence posts and nylon tape make a visible barrier and can be taken down easily for pasture maintenance. You may be able to manage smaller pastures with a length of rope or flat nylon tape (40 feet works well). Simply tie the rope or tape to the corner of the pen, walk out with it, and round up the animals.
• When herding with more than one human, both herders must remember the effect of their reach. Gate tenders should stay as far out of the way as possible. You would be amazed at the difference one giant step backwards will make. At clinics I have helped someone move an animal that was absolutely stuck simply by asking a bystander to move back a bit and open a gate slightly. Your camelids are acutely aware of human anatomy and will pass easily if the human is more than an arm's length away from the path the animals must take. It also is better if your gate tender is standing behind the gate instead of on the animals' side of the gate. It feels safer for the animals to pass through a gate if the gate is located between the human and the critters.

Catching

• Use a catch pen! Build or buy panels to create a sturdy, safe, confined area approximately 10' x 10' in a convenient spot accessible from your pastures. Herd your animals to this pen each time you halter or work with them. If you have any trouble with any particular technique or task while working in the pen, try making it smaller by stacking bales of hay inside the pen.
• Try catching difficult animals (wild or spitty animals in particular) in the pen by tying a rope to the end of a stick (a four-foot dowel will work). Use the stick to guide the rope over the head. Once the rope is around the neck you can control the head, but still allow your animal to move within the catch pen. Use the rope to steady your animal as you walk up to him with the halter.

Haltering

• If your animal is having difficulty with initial halter training, try this: Buckle the crown piece of your halter in its largest hole and offer this large opening as if it were the noseband of the halter. Sometimes a few practice attempts with this much larger opening can pave the way for actually putting the noseband over the nose.
• Check your halter fit! Halters that don't fit are dangerous, create behavioral problems, and don't work well for their intended purpose. Your halter is probably lacking if the noseband cannot be adjusted. A properly fitting halter rides up high on the nose bone close to the eye and stays there regardless of what the animal does or doesn't do. A properly fitting halter is safe and comfortable. The noseband rests firmly on bone and stays there, NO MATTER WHAT. There is enough room in the noseband for the animal to chew without interference.
• Before you put any halter on, always open the noseband so that it is larger than you think you need. Snug up the crown piece--tighter for animals with smaller heads. Take the slack out of the noseband. Larger animals need more room. Always physically examine the nose bone before you put a halter on an animal you don't know. Some animals have shorter than average nose bones. Recheck halter fit after about ten minutes—especially when haltering alpacas in full fleece.

Leading/Loading

• If you pull steadily on your llama or alpaca, he will pull steadily back. You and your animal will be counterbalanced. No productive movement will result from this counterbalance. Camelids learn very quickly to widen their stance, drop their head and grow roots. Llamas and alpacas commonly learn to cush as a reaction to the steady pull. Use intermittent signals with a mini release in between each signal and continue giving them until the animal loses his balance and moves.
• Use a longer lead for initial lead training. I like a lead that is about 17 feet long. Getting further away makes your camelid feel safer and more likely to try walking with you. If he does bolt, you have more lead time to react with a longer lead.
• If you have a long narrow aisle way, use it for your first few leading lessons. You can keep control of your animal more easily, and leading in a long narrow pen encourages your camelid to walk in a straight line behind you rather than all over the place.
• When showing a llama or alpaca, help him stand still by watching for weight shifts in the front half of the body. Pay very close attention to the front feet and use your lead to keep the weight evenly distributed on both front legs. If the animal's weight is more over the right leg, move the head and neck to the left and release--weight over the left leg, move the head and neck over the right leg and release. You must correct and release or your animal will begin to lead on the lead rope and you will end up fighting with him. Your camelid will be much more likely to stand still using this technique than if you try to hold him still using force.
• Do you have an alpaca or llama that has trouble paying attention on the lead? Try walking him over 5-6 parallel poles on the ground spaced about 3 feet apart. This will often help a scattered animal learn to slow down and focus.
• Loading a difficult camelid: Most llamas or alpacas would rather not get into a confined space with a human and will load in a trailer or other conveyance much better if they can get into the trailer themselves without being led in. Spot the trailer by the entrance to a barn and use panels to block any exit other than the trailer door. Herd the animals into the trailer. It will be much easier to herd a group of animals into the trailer releasing the ones you don't need rather than trying to load a single frightened animal intent on getting back to the group.

Management

• Try giving subcutaneous injections using the group method. Put as many camelids as you can into your catch pen. The animals will feel safer in a group, making the job easier from a pure-y psychological point of view. But the advantages don't stop there. With enough animals in the pen, you don't have to restrain the animals as you give the injection. The shot recipient can't move very much because of the crowd of other camelids. Stand behind the animal's eye on the side of the animal closest to the center of the pen, and use an injection site in the front half of the body—the crease of the neck works well. This is not only easier for the animals, but also a real time saver for the manager.
• Add a butt board to your chute! Tie a frightened camelid in a chute by the head and he will more than likely throw himself around, flip over, end up forward of the shoulder restraints, or lie down. A camelid's long neck makes it difficult and dangerous to restrain him by the head. Add a rear barrier to your chute, tie your animal loosely, and your chute becomes a very tiny catch pen instead of a restraint device. Camelids will remain calmer when contained than when restrained. Always double check halter fit when using a chute!
• Don't have a chute? If you have a trailer, use it for the chores that you would normally do in a chute.
• Are you nervous about giving an injection for the first time? Forget the orange; practice on a chicken! Get a whole chicken at the grocery store with the SKIN ON. Practice both sub-Q and IM injections with a variety of substances. Soy sauce is just about like Tetanus C/D; honey is very similar to Ivermectin. Try a variety of needle sizes. You will get a much more accurate idea of what to expect on a real animal. You can even bake and eat your chicken after you practice.
• Difficulties picking up feet to trim toenails? Don't bother picking up the feet at all! Stand your camelid on a rubber mat or concrete pad and trim the long parts of the toenail while the animal stands on his feet. It may not be the perfect answer, but it is possible to do a fair job of trimming toenails this way and this technique can keep you out of a fight with your camelid. A helper can steady the animal as you squat down and work. If your animal kicks, you may want to use a panel as a boundary reaching under the bottom rail to trim. Another alternative for quieter alpacas... steady the animal by putting your hand on the shoulders or hips while reaching down with the other hand to trim. When using this technique, it is best to nibble away at the nails rather than taking off big hunks. Pruning style toenail trimmers work best for this technique. I have even used long handled limb pruners on very long toenails. With these long handled pruners, I don't even have to bend over!

Husbandry

• If you ever have to milk a female camelid, this trick comes in very handy. Cut off the needle end of a 20cc syringe and insert the plunger in the wrong end-- the end you just cut off. You now have a breast pump. You can put the smooth end with the rim up against the teat, draw back with the plunger and you are milking away.
• Work with your babies early (three to four days old) and often (once a week) in the first three months. Five minutes per session is enough. Work in a catch pen with mother present; handle the mouth, tail and legs while the baby stands in balance unrestrained. Allow the baby to move freely in the catch pen and move with him as you work.
• Correct young camelids that don't respect proper boundaries. Male or female camelids that pull on your clothes, make physical contact with you, or stand in your way without yielding the right of way are heading down a dangerous path. Don't encourage this behavior and learn more about how to respond appropriately. 

And finally… Whatever you are doing, remember to breathe!

More information and details on these and other training and handling techniques are available in the past columns of Camelid Quarterly and Marty's book, "The Camelid Companion." For more information about Camelidynamics, Marty and TTEAM visit www.camelidynamics.com.

Thoughts on Deworming

By Kristy Brawn DVM
Reprinted from The Orgler, Wisconsin Organization of Llama Enthusiasts, February 2007

Parasite control has become a looming issue in our industry and ever-present questions at veterinary panel discussions. Parasite control programs vary based on the density of population (number of animals in a given area), the length of time that species has been on the same pastures (virgin pastures versus overgrazed yards), soil types (sandy soils are less conducive to parasite larvae/egg arrival than are heavy soils), parasites with other host species or parasites endemic to an area (meningeal worm and liver flukes) and "animal traffic" (a closed herd when there are no new animals and no movement versus a herd that shows, does outside breedings, "animal dealers," etc).

A few basic thumb rules:

1. Where there is grass, there are worms.
2. The more animals in an area, the higher your parasite exposure.
3. Coccidia become more of a concern the longer a species is in an area.
4. The more animals move on/off your farm, the more at risk you are for parasite infestation.
5. Formed stool does not mean your herd is parasite-free.
6. Fecal exams are an important management tool.
7. Use appropriate drug dosages--do not under-dose!
8. Proper doses and product rotation decreases the likelihood of resistance.

I hate to give a parasite control strategy for everyone to follow because it just won't fit every herd. If you have meningeal worm as a threat in your area, then your deworming must be more aggressive and timely and the importance of product rotation is far more important. If you have sandy soil or conditions are arid, you can get by with far fewer dewormings and a different rotation of products.

Generalities:

Meningeal threat - whitetail deer and snails/slugs are a part of the lifecycle of meningeal, so conditions conducive to snails/slugs increase your risk (heavy soils, standing water, leaf litter, down grasses, shady area, etc). Estimated 30-100 days for parasite to reach the spine.

Plan:

1. Deworm at 4-week intervals with Ivermectin products or 6-week intervals with Dectomax to kill parasite migration. Start with spring thaw and discontinue with 6" frost in winter or snow cover. Some plans have been suggested to use strategically timed doses of Avermectins (wet spring and fall) - this does not work in heavy infested areas - I did a test group for this strategy and had meningeal infections from April to December - decide if the value of the animal is greater than the risk of infection.
2. It is imperative to use a different family of dewormers 2-4 times per year to kill parasites not sensitive to the Avermectin class drug (Ivo and Decto) - Fendbendazole or Albendazole both also kill the larvae and are more effective against many of the internal parasites. The number of dewormings with these products varies based on stocking density and fecal exam results.

Non-meningeal areas - internal parasites are the biggest risk - see factors above regarding density and animal movement and combine with fecal exams to deter-mine appropriate scheduling.

Plan:

• Two weeks before pasture turn-out
• Mid-summer (July) End of grazing season
• Fecal exams periodically to monitor levels and need for dewormings

Liver Fluke threat: Geographical maps help to delineate the areas where flukes are a threat. Swampy areas, wet soil and water bodies increase the threat of flukes.

Plan:

Consider combined meningeal threat if appropriate and then 6-8 week dewormings either: 

• Ivomec Plus or Ivomec F (Ivermectin plus clorsulon)
• Valbazen (albendazole) 

Tapeworms: Valbazen

High doses of Fendbendazole

High doses of Pyrantel

Suggested drug dosages

There are minimum suggested dosages - certain parasite conditions may necessitate higher levels and newer research may also change suggested dosages.

Intestinal worms:

• Ivermectin products: 2cc/100# subQ (400mcg/kg)
• Dectomax: 2cc/100# subQ (400mcg/kg)
• Fendbendazole: Liquid - 10cc/100# orally (20mg/kg - note: this is 4x the label dose)
• Fenbendazole: Paste - 4x body weight (20mg/kg, - so a 1250# horse tube will deworm a 300# llama)
• Fenbendazole: Granules - 4x body-weight (20mg/kg - so a 500# equine packet deworms 125# of llama)
• Albendazole: Liquid - 8 cc/100# orally (20mg/kg or twice the label dose for cattle)
• Albendazole: Paste - 2x body weight (20mg/kg - so 500# cattle dose will deworm a 250# llama)

External parasites:

• Ivermectin and Dectomax as above
• Cyclence - pour on at cattle dose for lice and fly control

Other topicals as needed for specific parasites - ask your veterinarian for doses - in general if it is safe for use in lactating cattle, it will likely be safe for camelids, but check first!

Coccidia:

• Amprolium (Corid) at label dose for 7- 10 days
• Sulfaquinalones at label dose for 7-10 days
• Deccox at sheep dose used strategically for control
• E. mac - different drugs apply

Fecals, fecals, fecals!!!

The only way to know if you are doing a good job with your internal parasite control is to run routine fecal exams. Centrifuge concentration methods of fecal exam are needed to be sure we identify all possible eggs. Routine small animal flotations may miss many egg types and quantities - with the centrifuge method we not only identify the types of eggs present, but also get an estimate of eggs/gram and use this to assess your infection level. Composite tests can be run on groups - routine samples can be run anytime to assess infestation levels. Samples should be taken 10-14 days post-deworming to be sure that you are eliminating parasites. Note: if a sample is found positive on an individual animal, the whole group should be treated even if no other animals show symptoms.

The Infamous Meningeal Worm

Compiled by Terry and T. Audean Duesphol, Editors of the LAMA Letter, Newsletter of Pennsylvania Llama and Alpaca Assoc. Spring 2000

"The meningeal worm or brain worm should be (expected) wherever white-tailed deer graze lama pastures. The primary host is the white-tailed deer; the inter-mediate host is snails and slugs, and the aberrant hosts are lamas, sheep, goats, etc. The parasite may occur in any state or region where white-tailed deer roam. Larvae cause a severe reaction in the spinal column which interferes with nerve impulses causing loss of muscle control, incoordination, paralysis, and sometimes death." (Evans, C. Norman, DVM Veterinary Lama Field Manual. 1997.)

"The meningeal worm (Parelaphostrongylus) should be considered as a possible diagnosis for a down llama in the eastern United States and Canada where white-tailed deer are found. The llama accidentally ingests infective Parelaphostrongylus larvae in a snail. The worm then migrates up the llama's nerves to the spinal cord and ascends towards the brain. Serious inflammation occurs along the spinal cord in response to the worm migration. Signs begin as rear leg weakness and incoordination and can lead to complete paralysis and death. Your veterinarian should be called as soon as any signs of incoordination are seen so that prompt treatment can begin to try to save the animal's life.

Prevention includes fencing-off llamas from deer and decreasing snail populations around llamas." (Hoffman, Clare, DVM and Asmus, Ingrid: Caring for Llamas and Alpacas : A Health Management Guide, Second Edition, 1996.)

"Parelaphostrongylus is a natural parasite in white-tailed deer. This means that no disease occurs in the deer. The worm is passed from an infected deer through its feces, then develops in a snail which subsequently may be ingested by another deer. The llama or alpaca may become an accidental or abnormal host when it inadvertently eats a snail or slug containing the infective worm. Parelaphostrongylus migrates along the central nervous system thus causing neurologic abnormalities in the llama. Signs include incoordination, paralysis, knuckling or dragging of limbs, blindness, and the disease may worsen to the point of death." (Hoffman, Clare, DVM and Asmus, Ingrid: Caring for Llamas and Alpacas : A Health Management Guide, Second Edition, 1996.)

Dosages, Dosages, What to Do?

By the Duespohls

If you have been reading about parasites recently, there are a great many articles identifying exact dosages for the prevention of meningeal worm infestation. Reputable local and regional veterinarians are advocating a wide range of recommended dosages, which could totally confuse the camelid breeders. At the March PLAA meeting, Dr. Nikki Baird surprised many of the attendees by announcing that research in this area has proven that the previously accepted dosage of Ivermectin was not high enough to prevent the animals from being infected by the meningeal worm. He informed the group that the new recommended dosage was 1 mL per 70 lbs or 1.5 mL per 100 lbs.

In an effort to reinforce the importance of administrating the proper dosage of Ivermectin, Dr. David Anderson was contacted and requested to address the research occurring at Ohio State University in this area. Dr. Anderson's response to the request follows:

Parasite Research At OSU

By David E. Anderson

As you know, we have been performing parasite research fairly intensively for the past 2 years. I would like to share some of the findings we have.

Meningeal Worm Protection

Our pharmacology research indicated that the injectable Ivermectin (IVR) is absorbed well into the blood stream and provides blood levels for about 20 days. Thus, injectable IVR can be given every 30 days for meningeal worm control. Oral IVR gets absorbed less well and provides blood levels for about 12 to 14 days. Therefore, a dosing interval of 21 days is expected for oral IVR. Pour-on IVR is essentially not absorbed and would NOT be expected to provide protection against meningeal worm infection.

LAMAS Editors note: At a veterinary Conference at OSU in Dec 2004, Dr. Anderson indicated that injectable Dormectin (Dectomax) can be given at the same levels as IVR i.e. 1cc / 70 lbs, but provides blood levels longer than IVR. Therefore, Dectomax can be injected every 35-42 days. Plus it doesn't sting like IVR.

Intestinal Worm Protection

We have found that Ivermectin at 1 cc per 100 pounds body weight does not do as good a job as we would like in eliminating some intestinal worms. Of particular interest are whipworms and Nematodirus worms - these can cause severe problems including weight loss and low blood protein. At 1.5 to 2 cc per 100 pounds, we see a better response, but these two worms can persist. The same is true for Dormectin - no real difference between it and IVR.

We have found that fenbendazole (Safeguard or Panacur) given at label doses (cattle 5mg/kg, sheep 10mg/kg) does not do as well as we would expect. At 20 mg/kg we see excellent response and the whipworm and Nematodirus are controlled. Thus, we use 1cc per 100 lbs of the 10% suspension when using Safeguard. If there is an established whipworm problem, you probably need to use this product 3 to 5 days in a row!

We do not feel that fenbendazole is reliable in preventing meningeal worm infection, as is IVR. Thus, we are currently recommending that you use IVR monthly to prevent meningeal worm infection and use fenbendazole every 3-4 months to control whipworm and Nematodirus. As always, consult with your veterinarian and have fecal egg counts and parasite identification done to see what types of worms you have on the farm. This is critical to developing a FARM SPECIFIC parasite control strategy.

If you have a low stocking density, you may find that you do not need to deworm as much. If you have a high stocking density, you may find that things are getting out of control!

The Ohio State University Veterinary Hospital Treatment Plan for Meningeal Worm

This is the treatment plan for meningeal worm disease that was approved by the doctors at OSU in August 2005 for the use in a suspected case of meningeal in this area. The amounts of drugs given below are for a 350-pound llama. Dr. Anderson no longer includes the use of Dectomax or Ivomectin for the first three days of treatment because he believes that those drugs do not cross the blood/ brain barrier. However, the use of these drugs is believed to effectively kill any larvae that could be in the system to prevent them from entering the spinal cord in the first place.

Medicines and supportives:

• Banamine - Give SQ, 3cc 2x/day for 3 days and then 1x/day for 3 days (to minimize inflammation and pain)
• BOSE - 5cc used only once as a single injection, SQ, (to improve tissue healing)
• Safeguard Liquid - 90cc 1x/day for 5 days (to kill infective Meningeal Worm Larvae in the spinal column)
• Probios - 2x/day, one click each time for 7 to 10 days (to maintain a healthy stomach bacterial environment)
• Vitamin E - At least 1000mg/day for a couple of weeks then cut back to 400mg/day for a few months (to promote muscle and tissue healing and re-growth)
• Prilosec - (Gastroguard or Omniprosole) 1 tab crushed with treat 1x/day for 10 days (to prevent ulceration of the 3rd stomach compartment)
• Vitamin B - Give SQ, 3cc injection, 1x/day for 2-3 days depending on situation (to promote healthy appetite and energy level and maintain thiamine levels – is especially useful in hot weather when heat stress can become a factor with a camelid that is down)
• Gatorade - If suspected MW happens in summer, give 120cc/day for 2 days (to help maintain healthy electrolyte level) 

Physical Therapy:

• Llama should be made to rise every 3-4 hours to maintain circulation and muscle health. Use sling device if necessary.
• Massage the left rear leg (most compromised leg) every 3-4 hours until he is returned to a normal state of being able to rise and ambulate with minimal incoordination. This is essential to keep muscles from becoming contracted and to improve circulation to boost healing.
• In hot weather keep as cool as possible. Monitor temperature.
• Maintain access to cool , clean water at all times. Put water bowl where llama has free access to drink, even if llama is in sternal (cushed) position. Keep as hydrated as possible. Urinations are a good sign according to the doctor - many times the ability to urinate becomes compromised with meningeal worm. Monitor to be sure urination continues. Do not allow llama to lie in wet bedding - wet bedding can lead to urine scald.
• Feed the best grass hay available. Observe to be sure he is ruminating (chewing cud).
• Keep one or more of his buddies with him at all times.
• Prayer: no need for discussion.

(This article was submitted to the GALA Newsletter Oct 05 Issue by GALA member Cynthia Rossi. If you have any questions concern-ing this article, please contact her directly.)

No-Restraint Injections for Llamas

By Marty McGee-Bennett

When you put something sharp into a llama, it is a no-brainer: he is going to move. That is simply a Law of Camelidynamics! So, in order to give an injection, we must hold the llama still. The problem with this approach is that restraint gets everybody all worked up before you even get started! Imagine how you would feel if you were physically restrained to get a shot. I know that absolutely couldn't stand it.

With most medical procedures, the animal never has a chance to actually experience the procedure and react to it; the restraint is always applied before the procedure is even begun. The wilder and more difficult your llama is in the chute, the more likely he or she will be better off without it!

The needle for a subcutaneous injection is placed under the skin a half an inch, maybe less; for an intra-muscular injection an inch, maybe a bit more. I don't care how strong you are or how good your chute is, you cannot restrain a llama in a manner such that he is incapable of moving an inch. Because of the llama's long neck, it is very difficult to eliminate bodily movement by tying the head — even when the llama is inside a chute.

No matter how you truss the llama up when giving an injection, you must be prepared to move with the llama or he is going to move away from and off the needle. Since you have to learn to move with the llama anyway, why not simply contain the llama instead of restraining him? My no-restraint method offers many advantages:

• There is less movement.
• Any movement is less violent, less erratic and it can be predictable.
• The llama stays calm.
• The muscles are not tight.
• There is less likelihood of abscess.
• It is faster and easier.
• You can work alone, which saves on time and labor and also feels safer for the llama.

Get Organized

It is important to be organized when you are doing herd health. Being organized makes you feel competent, and also makes you appear competent to the beings that are on the other end of the needle. You will be able to work more quickly when you are organized, which is important for you and doubly important to the critters waiting their turn.

Imagine going to get your flu shot. The nurse sits you down but you have to wait for 15 minutes, and then he can't find the needle and finally after fumbling around for a few minutes, asks you, "Weren't you just in here a minute ago? Didn't I just give you a shot?"

Even if you have a chute, the easiest way to give injections is still in a catch pen. When doing herd health, put as many llamas as will comfortably fit inside the catch pen. The llamas should be on the crowded side — 8 to 10 alpacas or 5 to 6 llamas in a 10 x 10 pen are not too many. They won't be in there for long. If you have a small lumber of llamas — only 2 or 3 — you can make your pen smaller with bales of hay or use a mini-catch pen.

I like to crowd the llamas up when giving shots for two reasons: first, they slow each other down, making it easier to give the injection as the animal moves, and second, a llama feels safer in a group and tends to act out much less. Hang a bag of hay inside the pen, or if you are so inclined, a bag of hay in each corner of the pen. More llamas = more hay bags.

Before your llamas are even in the pen, draw up all your injections. Put your syringes and record-keeping clipboard in a place where you can reach it while standing inside the pen. A small table just outside the pen is perfect.

Wear an apron with a pocket in it for your syringe(s). A carpenter's apron is ideal. Remember; always keep the cap over the needle until it is time to use it. Keep all the llamas in the pen even after you have given them the injection, unless you have a rabble-rouser. Give any troublemakers their injections first and shoo them out.

Write down the name/number of the llama and what you gave immediately after you give the injection. I think it is also a good idea to write a brief comment about how the llama behaved. In this way, you can track your progress. If you are giving multiple injections to the same animal, I recommend that you give both injections one after another to the same llama rather than giving a round of med. #1 to everyone followed by a round of med. #2. I think the llamas have a sense of being done and relax more completely using the first strategy. If you have a larger herd, you can gather the whole group into the holding pen and then move groups of 8 to 10 into the catch pen, letting them out to the field when the group is finished. Using this system, no llama is ever alone, but you don't have to keep the entire herd confined the whole time.

The Technique

The trick to giving injections without restraining the llama is knowing which way the llama is going to go. In this way, you can move with the llama as you continue giving the injection.

Stand at center of the pen and approach your "injectee" from behind the eye. Walk directly up to the animal, reach across the body to the opposite side (see following description of preferred injection sites) and get yourself a big handful of wool. Grip the wool and roll your hand so that your knuckles are against the body (see above photo). The wool acts to pull the skin away from the body and creates a skin tent. Insert the needle just behind the pad of your thumb and you will inject the medication into the skin tent.

Prevent your animal's attempts to turn to the outside and change direction by using your hip to bump the rear end of the animal to the outside. This action pivots the llama around his center of mass and keeps him moving in the same direction. With your llama moving around the outside edge of the pen and you in the center, it is easy to keep up with the llama's movement as you inject the medicine.

Injection Sites

Before giving an injection you need to know where to inject. There are injection sites located all over the body; some work for no-restraint injections and others won't.

Stick something sharp in a llama's rear end and you can be sure he will do one of two things: move forward and maybe kick. Unless you stop the llama from moving forward, it is very difficult to keep the llama from walking right off the needle. Stop the llama in the front. Stick something sharp in his butt and he rears up or bucks — also not good.

I realize the muscle mass of the hind leg is bigger, but I still prefer the front half of the body for injections unless it is not possible. Some veterinarians like to use the armpit. I don't like this site because it is difficult to use without restraint. Sometimes there is no perfect choice. Provided the site is safe, I am going to opt for the one that is easiest for the llama.

Subcutaneous Injections (sub-Q or under the skin)

This is the easiest medical procedure there is. Most medications, even antibiotics, can be given this way. Give sub-Q injections as low on the front half of the body as possible. As much as possible, keep injections below a line drawn between the point of the shoulder and the point of the hip. I like the area just where the neck and shoulder come together. The skin is relatively loose in this area and there are no bones or major vessels to worry about. This site makes it very easy to go with the llama when he moves. The crease of the neck is also an easy place to check later for a reaction and is an easy place to treat in the unlikely event there is a reaction to the medicine.

Infra-muscular Injection (IM)

The site for an IM injection is a bit different, although still in the front half of the body. I prefer the back of the forearm (triceps muscle). Dr. David Anderson of the Ohio State University prefers sites in the front for two reasons:

1. They are easier to give without restraint, and
2. He thinks that the medicine or tranquilizer acts more quickly when given in the front half of the body. He feels that this muscle mass will accommodate up to 5 cc's of medication for alpacas and slightly more for llamas. 

**Of course, you should consult with your veterinarian about health care. When llamas are very sick and you must give large doses of medicine repeatedly, you may need to use injection sites all over the body, including the rear half. A sick llama is not likely to protest very much no matter what site you choose. When the llama begins to feel well enough to fight, I would switch to the front half and rotate from one side to the other.
You can read more about this technique and other non-traumatic approaches to herd management in Marty's brand new book, The Camelid Companion. For more about the book, clinics and equipment log onto Camelidynamics.com.

You can contact Marty by email, marty@martymcgeebennett.com, or visit her website at martymcgeebennett.com.

About Marty McGee…

Marty McGee is the only officially recognized TTEAM instructor for llamas able to clarify TTEAM llama practitioners. Marty graduated from the University of Georgia with a degree in animal behavior. She has raised llamas since 1981 when she became interested in them for their wool. As a former professional fiber artist, Marty brings a well-rounded knowledge of not only behavior and training, but wool issues.

Since discovering TTEAM in 1987, Marty has taught hundreds of training clinics all over the United States, Canada, England, Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Marty has been invited to present her llama training ideas at many veterinary schools including Oregon State University, Colorado State University, Purdue University, Iowa State, and Texas A&M. She has been a featured speaker at every major llama conference and was the only trainer invited to contribute to The Veterinary Clinics of North America Series on Llamas. She is the author of many articles on a variety of llama related topics and writes, or has written, regular columns for a variety of llama, alpaca, and TTEAM publications worldwide.

Marty has created a training video series and is the author of Llama Handling and Training, the TTEAM Approach, the best-selling training manual for llamas and has completed a full-color coffee table book entitled Llamas and Alpacas as a Metaphor for Life.