Camelid Handling Tricks of the Trade, Or Don't Cut Off A Piece of Perfectly Good Ham!

By Marty McGee Bennett, Cool Camelids

You would think that human beings would just naturally do things the easy way. As it turns out, we don't. Instead we often do things the way we were shown how to do them the first time. This is not necessarily the easiest or best way. I am reminded of a story… A woman is getting ready for Easter dinner and is busy cutting off the ends of the ham before putting it in the huge roasting pan. Her daughter is watching and asks, "Why are you cutting off the ends? There isn't anything wrong with the ham you are cutting off." The woman says to her daughter, "You know, now that you are asking...I don't know why. This is the way Grandma showed me how to prepare the ham for roasting and I have always done it that way." They both decided to find out why when Grandma arrived that afternoon. When asked about the mystery technique, she said, "My roasting pan was never big enough to hold the ham."

In my experience, I see an awful lot of people using training and handling techniques that are just as nonsensical, and for the same reason. The person who sold them their first alpaca or llama did it that way--so they do too.

You need not begin reading this article at the beginning or keep reading until the end. You don't have to understand or agree with any particular training or handling philosophy. The following list is a compilation of tricks of the trade that will help you work magic with your animals immediately. Newcomers to the camelid business will want to laminate this article and put it in the barn. If you have been at the camelid game for a while, you may already have figured out some of this, but read carefully. You may find one or two nuggets of wisdom to add to your "toolbox."

Herding

• Using a special word, noise or whistle to call your animals into the barn at mealtime is a great way of getting them in the barn--but be aware of the dangers of creating a "calling" pattern. Periodically call the camelids in at two in the afternoon or ten at night and give them food when you do. You won't be faced with a group of cute, clever camelids looking at their watches and shaking their little heads when you holler the magic word at the wrong time of day.
• When threatened, an animal's first choice is to get away--the flight response. All mental circuits are focused on finding an escape route. Herding a group of animals is actually the same as creating an escape route for the animals that suits you. Camelids will instinctively orient themselves so that they have a forward escape route relative to any perceived threat. Before you begin herding, look at the process from this perspective and block all exits, except the one leading to the desired location.
• When moving animals into or through small spaces, and particularly when moving around frightened or shy animals, be aware that you are larger than you think. Remember… to a camelid, you are as big as the physical space that you occupy and your reach (reach=your body and the length of your arms). You will make major points with your animals, especially nervous ones, if you keep yourself at a safe distance as you work around them.
• When sorting animals, it is helpful to have two or more levels of confinement. Small catch pens that join a slightly larger area are much more useful than a single, tiny catch pen in the corner of a huge pasture. It will be much easier to herd the animals into the secondary container. There will always be those animals that sneak by when you are working them into the smaller catch pen; with an intermediate container you will not have to start over in the big field.
• If your pasture is too big to manage alone, you can build a temporary fence in the middle of the pasture to create an area you can work with. Fiberglass fence posts and nylon tape make a visible barrier and can be taken down easily for pasture maintenance. You may be able to manage smaller pastures with a length of rope or flat nylon tape (40 feet works well). Simply tie the rope or tape to the corner of the pen, walk out with it, and round up the animals.
• When herding with more than one human, both herders must remember the effect of their reach. Gate tenders should stay as far out of the way as possible. You would be amazed at the difference one giant step backwards will make. At clinics I have helped someone move an animal that was absolutely stuck simply by asking a bystander to move back a bit and open a gate slightly. Your camelids are acutely aware of human anatomy and will pass easily if the human is more than an arm's length away from the path the animals must take. It also is better if your gate tender is standing behind the gate instead of on the animals' side of the gate. It feels safer for the animals to pass through a gate if the gate is located between the human and the critters.

Catching

• Use a catch pen! Build or buy panels to create a sturdy, safe, confined area approximately 10' x 10' in a convenient spot accessible from your pastures. Herd your animals to this pen each time you halter or work with them. If you have any trouble with any particular technique or task while working in the pen, try making it smaller by stacking bales of hay inside the pen.
• Try catching difficult animals (wild or spitty animals in particular) in the pen by tying a rope to the end of a stick (a four-foot dowel will work). Use the stick to guide the rope over the head. Once the rope is around the neck you can control the head, but still allow your animal to move within the catch pen. Use the rope to steady your animal as you walk up to him with the halter.

Haltering

• If your animal is having difficulty with initial halter training, try this: Buckle the crown piece of your halter in its largest hole and offer this large opening as if it were the noseband of the halter. Sometimes a few practice attempts with this much larger opening can pave the way for actually putting the noseband over the nose.
• Check your halter fit! Halters that don't fit are dangerous, create behavioral problems, and don't work well for their intended purpose. Your halter is probably lacking if the noseband cannot be adjusted. A properly fitting halter rides up high on the nose bone close to the eye and stays there regardless of what the animal does or doesn't do. A properly fitting halter is safe and comfortable. The noseband rests firmly on bone and stays there, NO MATTER WHAT. There is enough room in the noseband for the animal to chew without interference.
• Before you put any halter on, always open the noseband so that it is larger than you think you need. Snug up the crown piece--tighter for animals with smaller heads. Take the slack out of the noseband. Larger animals need more room. Always physically examine the nose bone before you put a halter on an animal you don't know. Some animals have shorter than average nose bones. Recheck halter fit after about ten minutes—especially when haltering alpacas in full fleece.

Leading/Loading

• If you pull steadily on your llama or alpaca, he will pull steadily back. You and your animal will be counterbalanced. No productive movement will result from this counterbalance. Camelids learn very quickly to widen their stance, drop their head and grow roots. Llamas and alpacas commonly learn to cush as a reaction to the steady pull. Use intermittent signals with a mini release in between each signal and continue giving them until the animal loses his balance and moves.
• Use a longer lead for initial lead training. I like a lead that is about 17 feet long. Getting further away makes your camelid feel safer and more likely to try walking with you. If he does bolt, you have more lead time to react with a longer lead.
• If you have a long narrow aisle way, use it for your first few leading lessons. You can keep control of your animal more easily, and leading in a long narrow pen encourages your camelid to walk in a straight line behind you rather than all over the place.
• When showing a llama or alpaca, help him stand still by watching for weight shifts in the front half of the body. Pay very close attention to the front feet and use your lead to keep the weight evenly distributed on both front legs. If the animal's weight is more over the right leg, move the head and neck to the left and release--weight over the left leg, move the head and neck over the right leg and release. You must correct and release or your animal will begin to lead on the lead rope and you will end up fighting with him. Your camelid will be much more likely to stand still using this technique than if you try to hold him still using force.
• Do you have an alpaca or llama that has trouble paying attention on the lead? Try walking him over 5-6 parallel poles on the ground spaced about 3 feet apart. This will often help a scattered animal learn to slow down and focus.
• Loading a difficult camelid: Most llamas or alpacas would rather not get into a confined space with a human and will load in a trailer or other conveyance much better if they can get into the trailer themselves without being led in. Spot the trailer by the entrance to a barn and use panels to block any exit other than the trailer door. Herd the animals into the trailer. It will be much easier to herd a group of animals into the trailer releasing the ones you don't need rather than trying to load a single frightened animal intent on getting back to the group.

Management

• Try giving subcutaneous injections using the group method. Put as many camelids as you can into your catch pen. The animals will feel safer in a group, making the job easier from a pure-y psychological point of view. But the advantages don't stop there. With enough animals in the pen, you don't have to restrain the animals as you give the injection. The shot recipient can't move very much because of the crowd of other camelids. Stand behind the animal's eye on the side of the animal closest to the center of the pen, and use an injection site in the front half of the body—the crease of the neck works well. This is not only easier for the animals, but also a real time saver for the manager.
• Add a butt board to your chute! Tie a frightened camelid in a chute by the head and he will more than likely throw himself around, flip over, end up forward of the shoulder restraints, or lie down. A camelid's long neck makes it difficult and dangerous to restrain him by the head. Add a rear barrier to your chute, tie your animal loosely, and your chute becomes a very tiny catch pen instead of a restraint device. Camelids will remain calmer when contained than when restrained. Always double check halter fit when using a chute!
• Don't have a chute? If you have a trailer, use it for the chores that you would normally do in a chute.
• Are you nervous about giving an injection for the first time? Forget the orange; practice on a chicken! Get a whole chicken at the grocery store with the SKIN ON. Practice both sub-Q and IM injections with a variety of substances. Soy sauce is just about like Tetanus C/D; honey is very similar to Ivermectin. Try a variety of needle sizes. You will get a much more accurate idea of what to expect on a real animal. You can even bake and eat your chicken after you practice.
• Difficulties picking up feet to trim toenails? Don't bother picking up the feet at all! Stand your camelid on a rubber mat or concrete pad and trim the long parts of the toenail while the animal stands on his feet. It may not be the perfect answer, but it is possible to do a fair job of trimming toenails this way and this technique can keep you out of a fight with your camelid. A helper can steady the animal as you squat down and work. If your animal kicks, you may want to use a panel as a boundary reaching under the bottom rail to trim. Another alternative for quieter alpacas... steady the animal by putting your hand on the shoulders or hips while reaching down with the other hand to trim. When using this technique, it is best to nibble away at the nails rather than taking off big hunks. Pruning style toenail trimmers work best for this technique. I have even used long handled limb pruners on very long toenails. With these long handled pruners, I don't even have to bend over!

Husbandry

• If you ever have to milk a female camelid, this trick comes in very handy. Cut off the needle end of a 20cc syringe and insert the plunger in the wrong end-- the end you just cut off. You now have a breast pump. You can put the smooth end with the rim up against the teat, draw back with the plunger and you are milking away.
• Work with your babies early (three to four days old) and often (once a week) in the first three months. Five minutes per session is enough. Work in a catch pen with mother present; handle the mouth, tail and legs while the baby stands in balance unrestrained. Allow the baby to move freely in the catch pen and move with him as you work.
• Correct young camelids that don't respect proper boundaries. Male or female camelids that pull on your clothes, make physical contact with you, or stand in your way without yielding the right of way are heading down a dangerous path. Don't encourage this behavior and learn more about how to respond appropriately. 

And finally… Whatever you are doing, remember to breathe!

More information and details on these and other training and handling techniques are available in the past columns of Camelid Quarterly and Marty's book, "The Camelid Companion." For more information about Camelidynamics, Marty and TTEAM visit www.camelidynamics.com.

The Rabies Vaccine and Other Vaccinations

Compiled by Stephen Hull MS, PhD

Here are some comments from our seminars where we talk about the rabies vaccine and other vaccinations:

1. The rabies vaccine MUST be given by a veterinarian in order for you to have legal protection. In many states (not all), you can buy the rabies vaccine “over the counter" at many farm stores with no prior veterinary prescription. But in the event of rabies exposure, your county health people will NOT recognize your non-vet, self-administered rabies vaccine administration (yes, even with receipts, etc).
2. The older rabies vaccines were known to cause reactions. Even with recent improvements, the rabies vaccine still remains a "hot" vaccine. This means that it has more potential to cause post shot reactions compared to "cold" vaccines (the CD&T combination, for example, is considered a cold vaccine for alpacas/llamas). However, giving a hot vaccine and a cold one within hours can cause more reactions than either given alone. For this reason, never allow your vet to administer the rabies vaccine and a CD&T (or Leptospirosis or West Nile or whatever vaccine) at the same time (unless they want to hang around for an hour afterwards). The vast majority of acute vaccinosis reactions are often apparent, within minutes, of giving the rabies vaccine with another different vaccine. You can always give the other non-rabies vaccine several days later. Always, always watch your animal after giving any vaccine, but always observe after a "hot" vaccine, as sometimes it takes thirty minutes or so for the acute symptoms to flare up.
3. There is no "one recommendation" for the rabies vaccine. Across the country, the rabies exposure risk from wild animals simply varies too much. You must look at your county/state data and make up your mind together with your vet's input. For example, rabies is highly endemic in some areas of the southeast USA, and ills virtually absent in others. One recommendation for all geographical areas is foolish as the rabies vaccine does cause reactions. But in rabies endemic areas, you MUST vaccinate! Your vet will know your area's risk.
4. If your alpaca/llama sees a rabid skunk/raccoon/bat/whatever, its natural curiosity leads it right up to that animal. They often "nose" the animal and resultantly get bit on the nose, lip or legs. Rabid alpacas/llamas can act "furious" (like dogs) or "dumb" (like cows). Not all drool. One symptom of rabies is observing a clearly nocturnal wild animal wandering about in the bright daylight, oblivious to other animals/people. Some infected animals do not show symptoms. For example, skunks carry rabies and do not show symptoms until very late in the disease. In the meantime, they can pass this disease to offspring during pregnancy.
5. When people call me about a wandering and "dazed looking" raccoon/skunk in the daylight, I immediately advise calling animal control, as this is likely rabies. They will likely shoot the rabid looking animal. They will not trap it. In most areas, animal control simply does not have the resources to confirm rabies on every suspected wild animal. If a suspected animal bites a person, then the expensive confirmation test is always done. If animal control cannot get there immediately, then you need to deal with this. Do NOT let this very likely rabid animal wander away to later return and potentially bite one of your livestock, dogs or cats, your neighbor's animals (or you!). I dislike guns, but I have one for this very purpose.
6. Alpacas/llamas get rabies. This is clearly documented. Rabies is spread by saliva and our camelid friends have a way of projecting this. Consider your liability for farm visitors.
7. The only way to confirm rabies is to cut off the suspected animal's head, get a small slice of brain tissue, use specific stains and look for cellular Negri inclusions under the microscope. There is NO other test. If your county suspects rabies in your animal, they have the right to quarantine your animal at your farm, off your farm (at your cost) and sadly (if symptoms persist), to kill your animal. This latter issue is rare but it does happen. Most often, you are told to quarantine your animal on your property (14 to 30 days depending).
8. There are one-year rabies vaccines and three-year rabies vaccines (both under the IMRAB and RABVAC labels) from two different vaccine manufacturers. Each drug company makes their one and three year vaccines from the same specific company batch. The three-year lots are just tested for efficacy at three years and thus cost more due to the longer testing, time, etc. Thus, the three-year tests show that the vaccine works at three years so it can he labeled as such (RABVAC-3 or IMRAB-3).
9. Some states/counties with endemic wildlife rabies insist on rabies vaccination every single year. Many animal health experts feel that this is too frequent for alpacas/llamas. We prefer every three years. The principal reason for the yearly vaccination protocol is to insure that a large percentage of the animal population gets rabies immunizations.
10. There are blood antibodies that can be tested to show that the rabies vaccine protection remains. Several dog/cat studies show that rabies vaccine protection exists for at least five years after injection. Some states/counties will accept blood antibody results and others will not.
11. The use of the rabies vaccine (and every other veterinary drug) for alpacas/llamas is considered a legal "off label" use. Off label means that there is no legal documentation of efficacy. This does NOT mean that the vaccine/drug/treatment does not work; rather, it simply means that in the case of an adverse reaction or lack of protection, there is no legal recourse against the vaccine manufacturer and/or vet. This off-label descriptor is typically a legal issue, not necessarily a pharmacological concern.
12. Rabies vaccination is not just for protection of your pet. Rather, it is a public health issue, as people get rabies from rabid animals (zoonotic disease). This sounds strange, but your vet is actually licensed to protect the public by immunizing/treating animals. This is a legal issue and gets back to the reason why only licensed vets can verify that a rabies vaccine has been properly administered.

I suggest that you print this off, and discuss this with your local vet. He/she has the best perspective for protection of your animals (as well as you!) and, together you must make the decision that is best for your animals in YOUR area.

Drug Expiration Dates: For Real or Just a Suggestion?

By L'illete Vasquez, Reprinted from LANA, Vol. 106, Spring 2010

This question comes up repeatedly, so I asked LANA's representing veterinarian for the Morris Animal Fund. Dr. Tim Thompson of Town & Country Veterinary Clinic (TCVC) in Platteville, CO (tcvc.net) for his thoughts on the validity of drug expiration dates.

"It is difficult to make blanket statements regarding expirations and potency of the products we use, but I will try:

• Hormones and metabolic preps: i.e., HcG, lutalyse, insulin: Should be considered extremely questionable past the expiration date. Do not use.
• Antibiotics: As long as they have not been subjected to abuses in storage—i.e., freezing or extreme heat—are probably close to expected efficacy as long as there is no color change or precipitate. I have found many producers in the past using these products with adequate results. Always check, though, if unexpected results occur: check expiration dates again.
• Other injectables: i.e., Banamine, lasix, etc.: Should follow the same guidelines; however, it is difficult to know how much the product has degraded once expired.
• Vaccines: Should not be used past expiration. Antigen degradation in the case of killed or toxin-derived vaccines and bacterins starts soon after manufacturing; and sometime after expiration, they will stop adequate stimulation of the immune system. Live vaccines and bacterins are even more liable.
• Powders and pills: Can be variable due to oxidation, heat, and humidity. If storage is good, they could potentially last well past expiration. Take it case by case, and watch results closely.

"Even if a product is well within its expiration, it is important to remember that it can still be bad. This is especially true of vaccines. If in doubt, or if you get unexpected results, change products."

LANA Editor's Note: Dr. Thompson makes no recommendations. If in doubt, or if you have any questions, always check with your vet!

Veterinary Acupuncture and Chiropractic: What, When, And Who?

By Ed Boldt, Jr., DVM, Reprinted from Miniature Donkey Talk 

The use of "complementary" therapies continues to increase in veterinary practice. While there are myriad modalities that fall within this broad term, the two most utilized are veterinary acupuncture and chiropractic (sometimes referred to as manual therapy). It is felt that as more of the population turn to complementary therapies for their own health care, those individuals then seek out such therapies for their animals. It should be stressed that the term "complementary" is the correct term for the use of veterinary acupuncture and chiropractic. These therapies complement our conventional/routine veterinary care. They are an adjunct, not a replacement.

This demonstration is intended to inform you of what veterinary acupuncture and chiropractic are, when they may be utilized to help your horse, and who you should look to for these services.

What are acupuncture and chiropractic therapies?

Acupuncture involves the insertion of a needle through the skin at predetermined sites (acupuncture points) for the treatment or prevention of disease, including pain. Acupuncture is only one of the therapies that come under the heading of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). The other TCM therapy most often used in veterinary medicine is herbal therapy, using Chinese herbs and herbal compounds.

Besides the use of solid, typically stainless steel needles, other means of stimulating the acupuncture points can be used. The effects of acupuncture therapy cannot be explained in terms of a single mechanism, but rather a series of interactions between the nervous system, the endocrine system, and the immune system. Anatomical examination of classical acupuncture points has shown that most of the acupuncture points are associated with certain anatomic structures of the nervous system. Acupuncture needling causes micro trauma that in turn causes a local inflammatory effect. This inflammatory effect results in an increased local tissue immune response, improved local tissue blood flow, and muscle and tissue relaxation. Some acupuncture points are known as "trigger points." These are tender areas found in skeletal muscle associated with a tight band or knot in the muscle. The principle trigger points in a muscle are located at its center in the motor endplate zone. This is where the nerve ends in a muscle and causes the muscle to contract. Besides using acupuncture points for treatment purposes, reactivity of acupuncture points can aid in diagnosis. When palpated, these points might show some sensitivity if there is a problem at that point, or with the acupuncture meridian or pathway that is associated with the point.

Chiropractic care focuses on the health and proper function of the spinal column, however, the pelvis, limbs, and head are also considered. Chiropractic uses controlled forces applied to specific joints or anatomic regions to cause a therapeutic response due to induced changes in joint structures, muscle function and neurological reflexes. The common principle in all chiropractic theory is that joint dysfunction affects the normal neurological balance found in healthy individuals. The spinal column should be considered from the standpoint of a "motor unit." This consists of two adjacent vertebrae and all their associated soft tissue structures — muscles and ligaments, nerves, blood vessels, and all the contents of the intervertebral space. Any disruption to the normal function of the motor unit is defined as a "vertebral subluxation complex." Adjustments are then done to correct this disruption and restore normal joint motion. From a chiropractic standpoint, there is no "bone out of place."

Acupuncture techniques

Dry Needling

This is the use of the typical "Chinese" or acupuncture needle. The needle consists of a solid shaft with a handle. Needles vary in length (0.5 to 6 inches) and diameter (0.25 mm to 0.75 mm). The smaller needles are used in the lower limbs, feet, head and ear, while the larger needles are commonly used in the neck, back, and upper limbs. The needles may be disposable or reusable via sterilization. Needles with wire handles are used for moxibustion (described below). Most disposable needles now have plastic handles. They may or may not come with an insertion tube that aids in placing the needle through the skin.

Aquapuncture

This is the injection of a fluid into the acupuncture point. While initially treating the point with acupuncture (needle being placed through the skin into the point), this process also leaves behind a liquid that continues to stimulate/treat the point with pressure (due to displacement of tissue by the fluid) and/or irritation over a period of time as it is absorbed. The most commonly used fluid is Vitamin B-12. Some veterinarians who are acupuncturists may inject medications into an acupuncture point to try to combine the effect of both the acupuncture and the medication. This is done with antibiotics and hormonal medications, as well as with homeopathic solutions such as Zeel and Traumeel. Trigger points and "ashi" points may also be injected. I typically use 25 gauge, 1.5 inch hypodermic needles, but for some points, 3 to 6 inch spinal needles may be used.

Electrostimulation/Electroacupuncture

This procedure involves attaching electrodes to the acupuncture needles and applying a pulsating electrical current to them. Stimulation can be achieved by varying the frequency, intensity and type of electronic pulse used on the acupuncture points. Research has shown that there are varying physiological responses to different types and frequencies of electronic pulses applied to acupuncture points. I utilize electroacupuncture primarily for neurological conditions such as facial nerve and radial nerve paralysis, and for non-responsive pain, especially in the lumbar area.

Moxibustion

This involves the burning of an herb either on an acupuncture point (direct moxibustion) in order to stimulate that point. The herb used (Artemisia vulgaris) is commonly called "mugwort." In horses, the most commonly used technique is "indirect moxibustion." Indirect moxibustion is done by holding a burning moxa stick 1/2 to 1 inch above the acupuncture point or by attaching a moxa to an acupuncture needle allowing the heat to be transferred down the needle into the acupuncture point. It is mostly used to treat chronic muscular and arthritic pain. It has also been used on lower back points when treating equine reproductive disorders and for use around chronic wounds to promote healing.

Hemoacupuncture

This is a procedure whereby the acupuncture point is bled with a hypodermic needle using a technique similar to the one in humans where a finger is pricked for a blood sample. It is most commonly used in the treatment of acupuncture points in the coronary band area ("Ting Point Therapy") and other points on the extremities (head, legs, tail). There are TCM implications as to the characteristics of the blood that comes out. I mainly use Hemoacupuncture with cases of laminities and as a distal treatment.

Cold Laser/Infra-red (IR) Stimulator

These units can be useful in stimulating acupuncture points that are difficult to treat any other way. In the equine, this is most commonly seen in the treatment of points on the extremities (head, legs). Caution should be taken with the use of lasers as damage to the eye can occur. The use of Infrared Stimulators such as the CEFCO model can be safely used for eye conditions and is especially useful with corneal ulcers.

Equine Acupuncture and Chiropractic Exam — What's Going On

As with any examination, I begin by getting a history on the horse. I especially want to know exactly what the horse is used for and at what level (weekend rodeos vs. PRCA; training level dressage vs. Prix St. George; occasional riding vs. full-time training, etc.). I then ask the handler to walk the horse in a straight line away and back. I want to watch how the horse tracks, as well as how the horse carries its head and neck, and how the pelvis moves. Does the horse carry its tail to the side? Does on hip move higher than the other one? Is there a "hunter's bump" or high tuber sacrale? I then begin examining the horse on the left (near) side at the head and work my way to the tail. I palpate acupuncture points along the meridians (channels) and will do chiropractic motion palpation as I go along. I will then do the right (off) side in exactly the same manner. I check for any sensitivity at certain acupuncture points that can aid in suggesting other areas of the horse to examine. I motion palpate the horse to check for any decrease in the range of motion and flexibility of the spine and pelvis, and for any sensitivity to the motion palpation. At this time, if I feel I need to see the horse move either on a lunge line or with a rider up, I have that done. I may then re-examine the horse to see if there is any change in either acupuncture point reactivity or motion palpation. If I need to examine the horse with hoof testers or do flexion exams I will do that. Once I have determined which acupuncture points are reactive, and what areas show decreased motion, I will then discuss with the owner my findings. We discuss if further conventional diagnostics are needed and treatment options. If we agree that acupuncture and chiropractic treatment are warranted, I then begin to actually treat the horse. If we agree that conventional diagnostics or treatments are needed, I refer the owner back to their routine veterinarian.

For information on veterinary acupuncture and veterinary chiropractic contact:

The International Veterinary Acupuncture Society

PO Box 271395, Fort Collins, CO 80527

(970) 266-0666

(970) 266-0777 (fax)

office@ivas.org, www.ivas.org

The American Veterinary Chiropractic Association

442154 E 140th Rd., Bluejacket, OK 74333

(918) 784-2231

(918) 784-2675 fax

www.animalchiropractic.org

Herbal Therapy in Llamas and Alpacas

By Donald Thompson DVM

This past September, Donald P. Thompson, DVM, CVA, was invited to speak at a veterinary conference in Chongoing, China on acupuncture point location and herbal remedies for cattle and camelids. His presentation covered protocols and techniques to treat a few common maladies in these food and fiber species. Along with cattle, horses, goats, dogs, and cats, Don has been working with camelids and their owners for twenty years in northern and central Vermont. His veterinary degree is from Cornell, then recently enhanced with his degree in acupuncture and his study of Chinese herbal formulas. The following paper is the portion of his presentation on camelids.

My final comments today will be concerning the emerging use of TCVM techniques in South American camelids, primarily llamas and alpacas in my practice. These are valuable animals in the United States worthy of having many treatment options at your disposal.
In dosing these animals with herbal formulas, one rapidly finds that oral administration is challenging, especially in adults. They rarely voluntarily consume the powder, but this route is worth trying first if the patient is not anorectic, offering the powder with grain. The very long, sinuous neck of camelids is used effectively to avoid oral administration of all but the smallest volume of liquids or suspensions. Llamas and alpacas may try to hit you with the head and/or neck in defense or may "cush," dropping to ventral recumbency to avoid you. Lastly, these animals will ward off your persistent advances with rapid, well-aimed expulsion of stomach contents, or "spitting" at you.

If attempting to treat these animals orally, I recommend dosage volumes comparable to that cited for cattle, due to the presence of the complex, three-compartment stomach. Administer small amounts of the total dose, tip the nose up slightly, and allow them time to swallow to avoid aspiration, then give more.

As an alternative to oral dosing, I have begun teaching my camelid owners to administer a much smaller dose--that of the horse--via rectal suppository. With the head either held or tied and the tail firmly raised, owners have found this route of administration to be technically simple and I have found it effective. The typical 30-gram dose of powder is mixed with a minimal amount of warm water, often 30-60 cc, to create a thick slurry. I use a 60 cc catheter tip syringe to deposit the slurry past the anus into the rectum in a minimal volume, trying to avoid creating the sensation of an enema followed by rapid expulsion and loss of the herbal.

While I have now treated many conditions in camelids both with acupuncture and with herbals, I would like to finish this presentation with what is an interesting case for me, lending hope for more such cases in the future. In the United States, we deal with many cases of paraparetic to paraplegic llamas and alpacas, which almost universally are presumed to be and subsequently treated as cases of meningeal deer worm, or Parclaphostrongylus tenuis, spinal disease.

Meningeal Worm (P. Tenuis) Myelopathy Life Cycle and Treatment

The life cycle of the meningeal deer worm is an interesting one. The definitive host is the white-tailed deer, common to the United States, especially in the Eastern part. Adult worms lay eggs in the meninges of the deer. The eggs then pass into the venous circulation and travel to the lungs, where they hatch into the L1 larvae. The L1 are coughed up, swallowed and passed in the deer's feces. These larvae invade or are ingested by terrestrial slugs or snails, which serve as an intermediate host. The L1 larvae develop into the infective stage L3 larvae in these gastropods over 3-4 weeks. When consumed by a susceptible aberrant species, including llamas and alpacas, the L3 migrate to the spinal cord and wander aimlessly, creating neurological disease (1).

I now treat these paralyzed llamas with two therapeutic goals in mind, the first being destruction of the invading parasite, the second being relief of Blood and Qi stasis in the spinal cord. Two Jing Tang Herbal formulas help accomplish these goals. Qing Hao Powder is responsible for destruction of the parasite, tonification of Qi and enhancement of Zheng-Qi and its immune function and Double P#2 is my choice for breaking down stasis in the spine, moving Qi, and relieving pain. The composition of each formula, as cited by Jing Tang, is as follows:

Qing Hao Powder (2,3)

• Atractylodes Bai Zhu: To tonify Qi and strengthen the spleen
• Codonopsis Dang Shen: To tonify Qi and strengthen Zheng Qi
• Licorice Gan Cao: To harmonize
• Dryopteris Guan Zhong: To kill parasites
• Astragalus Huang Qi: To tonify Qi and enhance immune function
• Omphalia Lei Wan: Kills internal and external parasites
• Artemisia Qing Hao: Kills and expels blood-mediated parasites
• Quisqualis Shi Jun Zi: Kills gastrointestinal worms

Double P #2 (2,3)

• Morinda Ba Ji Tian: Warms Yang, tonifies the kidney
• Psoralea Bu Gu Zhi: Tonifies Kidney Yang and strengthens bone
• Peony Chi Shao Yao: Cools blood, resolves stagnation
• Ligusticum Chuan Xiong: Activates blood, resolves stagnation
• Angelica Dang Gui: Nourishes and activates blood, resolves pain
• Lumbricus Di Long: Clears internal wind and detoxifies
• Cucommia Du Zhong: Strengthens the back, tonifies Kidney Yang
• Aconite Fu Zi: Warms Yang and the channels
• Licorice Gan Cao: Harmonizes
• Cibotium Gou Ji: Tonifies Kidney Yang and the channels
• Drynaria Gu Sui Bu: Strengthens bone and tonifies Kidney Yang
• Carthamus Hong Hua: Moves blood, resolves stagnation and stasis
• Astragalus Huang Qi: Tonifies Qi
• Strychnos Ma Oian Zi: Activates channels, relieves pain, clears Wind-Damp
• Myrrh Mo Yao: Resolves stagnation and relieves pain
• Cyathula Niu Xi: Tonifies kidney Yang and strengthens rear limbs
• Scorpion Quan Xie: Resolves stagnation
• Olibanum Ru Xiang: Resolves stagnation and relieves pain
• Notoginseng Tian San Qi: Moves blood and stops hemorrhage
• Lindera Wu Yao: Moves Qi and relieves pain
• Dipsacus Xu Duan: Strengthens bones and ligaments, tonifies Kidney Yang
• Draconis Xue Jie: Resolves stagnation

To reiterate, I instruct the patient's owner to administer each of these formulas as an aqueous intrarectal suppository at 15 grams (2 tablespoons) of each twice a day for up to one month. These recumbent animals are very easy to treat in this manner and, based on the first few patients that I have treated as such; results appear positive in comparison to my previous efforts using a Western pharmaceutical protocol. Such a protocol commonly includes any or all of the following: Fenbendazole, Ivermectin, flunixin meglumine, thiamine, vitamin E, selenium and cyanocobalamin. Using the Western and Eastern treatment modalities may prove to compliment each other in future eases.

References

1. Anderson, D. (2002). Parelaphostrongylus Tenius (Meningeal Worm). Retrieved on July 20, 2008 from http://www.vet.ohiostate.edu/docs/ClinSc i/camelid/mening.html
2. Xie, H. (2004). Chinese Veterinary Herbal Handbook. Reddick, FL: Chi Institute
3. Xie, H. (2008). Dr. Xie's Jing-tang Herbal, Inc. Retrieved on July 21, 2008 from http://www.tevmherbal.com

Thoughts on Deworming

By Kristy Brawn DVM
Reprinted from The Orgler, Wisconsin Organization of Llama Enthusiasts, February 2007

Parasite control has become a looming issue in our industry and ever-present questions at veterinary panel discussions. Parasite control programs vary based on the density of population (number of animals in a given area), the length of time that species has been on the same pastures (virgin pastures versus overgrazed yards), soil types (sandy soils are less conducive to parasite larvae/egg arrival than are heavy soils), parasites with other host species or parasites endemic to an area (meningeal worm and liver flukes) and "animal traffic" (a closed herd when there are no new animals and no movement versus a herd that shows, does outside breedings, "animal dealers," etc).

A few basic thumb rules:

1. Where there is grass, there are worms.
2. The more animals in an area, the higher your parasite exposure.
3. Coccidia become more of a concern the longer a species is in an area.
4. The more animals move on/off your farm, the more at risk you are for parasite infestation.
5. Formed stool does not mean your herd is parasite-free.
6. Fecal exams are an important management tool.
7. Use appropriate drug dosages--do not under-dose!
8. Proper doses and product rotation decreases the likelihood of resistance.

I hate to give a parasite control strategy for everyone to follow because it just won't fit every herd. If you have meningeal worm as a threat in your area, then your deworming must be more aggressive and timely and the importance of product rotation is far more important. If you have sandy soil or conditions are arid, you can get by with far fewer dewormings and a different rotation of products.

Generalities:

Meningeal threat - whitetail deer and snails/slugs are a part of the lifecycle of meningeal, so conditions conducive to snails/slugs increase your risk (heavy soils, standing water, leaf litter, down grasses, shady area, etc). Estimated 30-100 days for parasite to reach the spine.

Plan:

1. Deworm at 4-week intervals with Ivermectin products or 6-week intervals with Dectomax to kill parasite migration. Start with spring thaw and discontinue with 6" frost in winter or snow cover. Some plans have been suggested to use strategically timed doses of Avermectins (wet spring and fall) - this does not work in heavy infested areas - I did a test group for this strategy and had meningeal infections from April to December - decide if the value of the animal is greater than the risk of infection.
2. It is imperative to use a different family of dewormers 2-4 times per year to kill parasites not sensitive to the Avermectin class drug (Ivo and Decto) - Fendbendazole or Albendazole both also kill the larvae and are more effective against many of the internal parasites. The number of dewormings with these products varies based on stocking density and fecal exam results.

Non-meningeal areas - internal parasites are the biggest risk - see factors above regarding density and animal movement and combine with fecal exams to deter-mine appropriate scheduling.

Plan:

• Two weeks before pasture turn-out
• Mid-summer (July) End of grazing season
• Fecal exams periodically to monitor levels and need for dewormings

Liver Fluke threat: Geographical maps help to delineate the areas where flukes are a threat. Swampy areas, wet soil and water bodies increase the threat of flukes.

Plan:

Consider combined meningeal threat if appropriate and then 6-8 week dewormings either: 

• Ivomec Plus or Ivomec F (Ivermectin plus clorsulon)
• Valbazen (albendazole) 

Tapeworms: Valbazen

High doses of Fendbendazole

High doses of Pyrantel

Suggested drug dosages

There are minimum suggested dosages - certain parasite conditions may necessitate higher levels and newer research may also change suggested dosages.

Intestinal worms:

• Ivermectin products: 2cc/100# subQ (400mcg/kg)
• Dectomax: 2cc/100# subQ (400mcg/kg)
• Fendbendazole: Liquid - 10cc/100# orally (20mg/kg - note: this is 4x the label dose)
• Fenbendazole: Paste - 4x body weight (20mg/kg, - so a 1250# horse tube will deworm a 300# llama)
• Fenbendazole: Granules - 4x body-weight (20mg/kg - so a 500# equine packet deworms 125# of llama)
• Albendazole: Liquid - 8 cc/100# orally (20mg/kg or twice the label dose for cattle)
• Albendazole: Paste - 2x body weight (20mg/kg - so 500# cattle dose will deworm a 250# llama)

External parasites:

• Ivermectin and Dectomax as above
• Cyclence - pour on at cattle dose for lice and fly control

Other topicals as needed for specific parasites - ask your veterinarian for doses - in general if it is safe for use in lactating cattle, it will likely be safe for camelids, but check first!

Coccidia:

• Amprolium (Corid) at label dose for 7- 10 days
• Sulfaquinalones at label dose for 7-10 days
• Deccox at sheep dose used strategically for control
• E. mac - different drugs apply

Fecals, fecals, fecals!!!

The only way to know if you are doing a good job with your internal parasite control is to run routine fecal exams. Centrifuge concentration methods of fecal exam are needed to be sure we identify all possible eggs. Routine small animal flotations may miss many egg types and quantities - with the centrifuge method we not only identify the types of eggs present, but also get an estimate of eggs/gram and use this to assess your infection level. Composite tests can be run on groups - routine samples can be run anytime to assess infestation levels. Samples should be taken 10-14 days post-deworming to be sure that you are eliminating parasites. Note: if a sample is found positive on an individual animal, the whole group should be treated even if no other animals show symptoms.

Parasites 101

Reprinted from Cool Camelids

Parasites have co-evolved with their mammalian hosts for hundreds of thousands of years. In comparison, it is a relatively brief period that humans have attempted to control their presence with the use of anthelmintics (dewormers). Parasites, meanwhile, have shown an incredible knack for adapting and surviving our best efforts to eradicate them. Most recently, the frequent use of Doramectin and Ivermectin in camelids to prevent Meningeal Worm has altered the population dynamics and genetics of some parasites, leading to resistance to these products. In addition, the indiscriminate use of other anthelmintics such as Fenbendazole and Amprolium is also suspected of leading to resistance.

Gastrointestinal parasites are increasingly implicated as a cause of serious health problems affecting camelids. Economic losses include poor weight gain and growth, costs for treatment and prevention, and loss of animals from death. In addition to the problems arising from resistance, overstocking can make elimination of harmful parasites from the herd much more difficult.

No Easy Answer

Unfortunately, there is no easy answer. Prevention must be tailored to each individual farm. There are too many variables that will affect the life cycle of the parasites, the types of parasites present in a herd, the parasites' survivability in the environment, and even the likelihood of contamination of herd members.

Factors to consider include:

• The individual farm's geography: A farm in Maine, a farm in Georgia, a farm in Colorado, and a farm in California are all likely to encounter different problems. Variations will include climate, foliage, soil and even species of parasites.
• The farm's layout: This includes pasture design as well as shelter availability and location. The ability (or lack of ability) to rotate animals to "safe" pastures and rest contaminated pastures will affect contamination and recontamination of herd mates.
• Deworming history of individual animals, farm history, stocking density, exposure to transient or outside animals, exposure to animals with unknown history or exposure to infected animals: All of these factors will influence the level and type of parasitic challenge in the environment.

In addition, when formulating a parasite prevention or treatment plan, fecal egg counts should be used to measure the level of parasitic infection in a herd, and the effectiveness of the eradication program.

Identifying At Risk Animals

While fecal egg counts are important in identifying parasites and degree of contamination, at risk populations and target groups also need to be established. Factors to be considered include age, nutritional status and presence or absence of clinical signs. Younger animals, particularly crias and weanlings, are going to be your animals most susceptible to the presence of parasites in the environment. Animals that have a poor body condition, or a lack of weight gain or weight loss should also be evaluated for parasites. Those animals that are immunocompromised, suffering other diseases or under stress (i.e., recent weaning, transportation, change in environment), are also going to be in a high-risk category.

In many cases, clinical signs do not truly reflect the direct parasitic damage. Many of these parasites cause damage to the lining of the gastro-intestinal tract. This may affect the animal's ability to digest feed and absorb nutrients. Other parasites may cause anemia due to blood loss. Clinical signs, if present, may include lethargy, diarrhea, inappetance, weight loss, lack of weight gain, poor condition, sudden collapse, and death. The lack of clinical signs does not mean that an animal is not at risk of suddenly becoming very ill and/or dying.

Treatment will almost always involve deworming; however, even with effective elimination of parasites, severely affected animals may still be at risk of illness or dying due to secondary damage to the gastro-intestinal tract. In severe cases, aggressive supportive care may be needed. This may include I.V. fluids, plasma, and/or a blood transfusion. The economic ramifications involved in treating a sick animal or actually losing an animal make treatment more costly than prevention.

Fecal Egg Counts

The only effective way of identifying individual at risk animals is through fecal egg counts. This allows the identification of the parasitic species involved, the degree of infestation, and the degree of environmental contamination, and determines if and when animals should be dewormed. In addition, fecal egg counts can be used to evaluate the effectiveness of the anthelmintics being utilized.

If you request a fecal analysis from your veterinarian, make sure he/she is not using a simple fecal float for analysis. Because the level of parasites tends to be low, a special procedure known as a modified Stoll's method is used to separate the eggs from the other material in the test tube. If your veterinarian is not prepared to evaluate the fecal sample, he/she may choose to send it to a university with a veterinary teaching hospital where the sample can be analyzed by a parasitologist.

When evaluating a herd, fecal samples need to be collected and evaluated on a sufficient number of animals. A gold standard is to use fecal samples from 10 animals or 10% of the herd--whichever is the greater number. The herd average is a reflection of the environmental contamination. Once a sample is collected, it should be placed in a clean plastic bag or cup and labeled. If it is not going to be evaluated immediately, it should be placed in a refrigerator. A sample should be analyzed within a day or two of collection to obtain the most accurate results.

Fecal samples analyzed prior to treatment should be compared to fecal samples collected two weeks post-treatment to establish efficacy of the anthelmintic. A drop in parasite numbers of at least 90% should be observed. Most parasites have a two-three week life cycle. Waiting this long will allow any surviving parasites to repeat another cycle, reach maturity and have eggs present in the feces. A significant presence of parasites two weeks after treatment would indicate an ineffective "kill" by the anthelmintic utilized.

During extremely cold periods, parasites may go into a state of hypobiosis within the animal. This is a metabolically inactive period and may result in a carry- over to the spring of a heavy parasite load. Fecal egg counts taken during a period of hypobiosis may result in false negative findings.

As with any of the pharmaceutical products used in veterinary medicine, anthelmintics are not labeled for camelid use. Extra-label use has been studied and safe dosages have been established. You should use extreme caution when using anthelmintics on pregnant animals or crias less than three months of age. If in doubt, consult with your veterinarian on the suitability of a product and its dosage.

So why would an anthelmintic fail?

There are a number of reasons:

• Resistance: The frequent use of a single class of anthelmintic will encourage the development of resistance to any and possibly all drugs within that class. "Class" of anthelmintic refers to the "family" of chemicals used to produce the anthelmintic. Products within the same class use the same method of kill to eliminate the parasites. Anthelmintics from different classes use different kill methods. Parasites have survived every attempt man has made to eradicate them by developing resistance to kill methods. When this occurs, another kill method or class of anthelmintic must be utilized.
• Example: Ivermectin and Doramectin are both Avermectins and, therefore, within the same class. Because they use the same kill method, rotating between them will most likely not decrease resistance! Fenbendazole is from a different class, Benzimidazoles, and should be effective if resistance to the Avermectins has developed.
• Under-dosing: Dosing for the incorrect body weight will lead to the administration of the wrong dose. Under-dosing can lead to an insufficient kill of the parasites. Not only will the problem remain, but it can also be worsened as under-dosing can contribute to the establishment of resistance to an anthelmintic.
• Improper administration: Spit happens! An anthelmintic will not be effective if it is spit onto the ground! Likewise, a subcutaneous injection will be ineffective if the needle is poked through the skin and the injection is squirted out the other side of the skin. If you are unsure of techniques, ask your veterinarian to review them with you.
• Recontamination (part I): Rotate! Rotate! Rotate! Returning animals to contaminated fields will lead to recontamination of the recently treated animals. Ideally, treat, wait 72 hours for any live parasites to be shed, and then move treated animals to a "clean" field. Keep in mind that if the animals are moved to a new field but are utilizing the same shelter, they may still be exposed to the same contaminated environment.
• If environmental contamination is suspected, fecal samples analyzed prior to treatment should be compared to fecal samples collected six weeks post-treatment (don't confuse this with the two week check for anthelmintic effectiveness--you'll need to do both tests to distinguish between resistance and recontamination). The six-week period allows sufficient time for animals to be re-exposed, re-infected, and allows sufficient time for the parasites to reproduce.
• When planning how long to keep animals off of contaminated fields, keep in mind the conditions of the field, the climate, and the time of year. Many parasites thrive in warm, moist conditions and can survive in hospitable conditions in the environment. During hot, summer months, they may survive in the pasture for 30-60 days. This can be increased in cooler weather by up to 4 to 8 months, depending on the species of parasite.
• Rotating with other species can be useful to help manage field availability. However, while horses and donkeys are okay, sheep and goats share parasites with camelids and sharing grazing space with them can lead to very high parasite levels in the camelids.
• Recontamination (part II): If even one animal is not effectively dewormed, it can re-contaminate your field and re-infect the rest of the herd! No drug is 100% effective. Also, not all animals will respond to a drug the same way. Retesting allows for the identification of ineffective drugs. It also allows for the identification of “trouble animals." These are the repeat offenders who continue to be infected following treatment.

Other considerations

• Overcrowding: The ideal stocking density is 3-4 llamas or 5-6 alpacas per acre. This does not include your rotational fields. If every available pasture is in use, there is no room for rotation. If the stocking density is higher than the suggested level, the animals are more likely to come into contact with fecal material and parasite eggs. If animals are being forced to graze near dung piles, there are too many animals or the grazing area is not large enough.
• Farm layout and management: Evaluate field dynamics to determine the ideal location for feeders and shelters. Try to separate the bathroom from the kitchen by placing feeders away from the dung pile. While it may be impossible to prevent defecating in or around the shelters, every attempt should be made to maintain cleanliness where the animals cush. If a dam cushes near a dung pile, the teats will likely be contaminated and the cria exposed to parasites.
• Age segregation can help decrease exposure to susceptible youngsters. Adults can be asymptomatic carriers--shedding parasites without any disease. The parasites that might not affect an adult may cause severe disease and even death in crias.
• Biosecurity: Quarantine all new animals—including animals brought in for breeding, returning from breeding farms, or returning from events. Younger animals and pregnant females in particular should never be exposed to transient animals. Keep in mind that human visitors can track in parasites to your farm on their shoes, clothing and/or hands! Plastic booties and hand washing are two sensible examples of how risk can be decreased.
• Aside from a quarantine area, consider establishing a remote area on your farm for mobile breeding. This may involve either shipping in a stud to cover your females or shipping in females for a one day breeding only to your male. The transient animal is brought to a pen that is only used for breeding. Other than the animals being bred, no other animals should enter this pen. The pen is then disinfected following breeding--rubber mats are easier to disinfect than a dirt floor. If you must keep breeding animals overnight or for any extended period of time, you should have quarters for them separated from the rest of your herd.
• Good biosecurity practices not only keep parasites from sneaking into your herd, but also can help prevent the spread of infectious disease!

Decreasing the use of drugs:

• Hygiene: Cleaning dung piles is a start, but keep in mind that feces may also be tracked on foot pads and deposited into shelters and near feeders. Keep those areas clean and avoid feeding off the around.
• Utilize pastures/grazing systems: Ideally, stay within the suggested stocking density and practice field rotation. If your stocking density is higher than ideal, try to develop grazing strategies to allow higher numbers of animals on less land. This may involve splitting existing fields to allow for some field rotation. Long, narrow lots are less efficient than square/rectangular lots.
• Optimize host immune resistance: A healthy animal will be more resistant to parasites and to the effects of parasitism. You can improve your animals' immune function through good nutrition.

Take home message:

• Work with your veterinarian in establishing good strategies to prevent illness due to parasites.
• Frequent deworming is destined to create resistance to the chemicals being used!
• Use management and fecal egg counts to decrease the exposure to parasites and the use of chemicals.

Biography:

Shari C. Silverman is a graduate of the University of Pennyslvania School of Veterinary Medicine. Good health management and a need for compassionate care for small ruminants, camelids, and horses are what prompted Dr. Shari Silverman to establish Abbey Rose Veterinary Services. Serving clients and patients throughout New Jersey and Eastern Pennsylvania, the practice provides wellness programs, educational seminars and programs, as well as emergency services 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. In her spare time, Dr. Silverman flies planes, kayaks and plays on her farm where she lives with her husband and many different animal friends.

Shari Silverman, VMD

Abbey Rose Veterinary Services

Email: vmd@abbeyrosevet.com

Website: www.abbeyrosevet.com